Full COVERAGE … or full COVER tips? I’m going with full COVERAGE, I seriously struggled with what word to go for this video topic (lol). I see more ‘full cover’, but I think ‘full coverage’ is the more appropriate word. I don’t know! Help a girl out!
Ok enough, in today’s video we’ll be exploring 5 common mistakes nail stylists make when adhering full coverage tips with gel. Now there are different ways to adhere these tips… like with polygel and glue, but I’m going to keep true to what I do in this channel, and talk about this issue as it pertains to gel. If you want to see the polygel method, comment below, and if we get enough buzz I’ll go ahead and do it for you.
Ok let’s do this.
Greetings and welcome back to my channel. If you are new here, I am Paola of paolaponcenails.com and I help aspiring and current gel nail stylists become thriving entrepreneurs. In this channel we talk Japanese Gel, natural nails, and business. If it sounds like a fit for you? Then don’t leave w/o subscribing.
Alright… back to today’s topic.
Full Coverage Tips Mistake #1
Going with the wrong tips.
The biggest mistake here is buying tips that are too sculpted.
Most people do not have beautiful elongated nail beds and a c-curve to their natural nails. Most of us have flat natural nails or only a very natural c-curve. Unless you want the sculpted look, buy tips from your preferred brand of full coverage tips that offer a natural curve to their tips.
I do not recommend that you buy sculpted tips as your standard all fitting nail tip choice. If you are unsure, start with a brand of tips that you can ‘mold’ or roll in a c-curve too. Start there, and then see if you or your clients desire a more sculpted look.
Japanese gel nail brand Kokoist and Korean brand Form the Nail offer such full coverage tips.
And if sculpted is definitely the look and feel you’re going for, tip the finger downward as you’re applying the full cover tip, and do so slowly. Be ready to immediately freeze i.e. cure, that gel in place.
And I’ve already done a video comparing a couple of brands to each other, so do check it out in my library or the card using the link above.
Full Coverage Tips Mistake #2
Wrong tip size.
So irregardless of whatever brand and style of tip you choose, fitting that full cover tip is oh-so crucial. If you choose a size too small for the natural nail, you will most likely apply too much pressure to adhere, and that full cover tip could pop off.
And you can also go on the other side of the spectrum right, choose a tip that is a bit bigger than that natural nail it is adhering too. In this case, if you do not adjust the tip to fit within the lateral nail folds then you or your client will have lifting as a result of the gel or plastic tip touching the skin.
All part of the full cover tip should be flush to the natural nail
Full Coverage Tips Mistake #3
Too little gel.
Ok, so I briefly alluded to using too much pressure to adhere the full coverage tip to the natural nails. That usually will happen not only when you are trying to make the tip fit, but also when you have very little adhesion gel and so you press down to get it to flow all over the natural nail. Been there done that… so, I understand the struggle. Now the right viscosity gel is important for adhesion. If you grab one that is too thin, it will run to the sides and cause lifting after being cured. I do find that whatever adhesion gel the manufacturer recommends typically also comes at the right viscosity so you do not need to figure this puzzle out for yourself, go with the gel the manufacturer recommends to avoid any headaches.
No-headache-zone over here… hehe.
Likewise grabbing too much gel can also be a mistake.
So here is my rule of thumb… outline your full coverage tip before putting it on the natural nail by putting as much gel as the length of the nail bed you are putting it on. Then, scrape the excess of your brush into a dollop at the cuticle end of the tip. This is typically the right amount of gel for proper adhesion.
Full Coverage Tips Mistake #4
Too much pressure.
Now is the time to really talk pressure when adhering these full coverage tips.
The most pressure should come when you are holding the tip at the cuticle end. Seriously, seriously, just breathe relax… hold it at the base with gentle pressure, grab your handheld curing unit and cure 5 secs, then press the free edge slightly to allow the uncured gel to flow just until the end of the natural nail. Continue curing, then let go once it all has set where you want it to and cure.
When you look on the underside of the nail, you should neither have a gap or a bulge of gel and just about 1cm thickness of gel is all that should be there.
Full Coverage Tips Mistake #5
Not having your light source ready to go.
Totally guilty. This is almost like a life lesson in itself. Make sure that you are always ready and you stay ready… for what? For whatever amount of lemons life gives you to make that lemonade girl. Ok but seriously… back to full coverage tips.
What happens when you squirm for your lamp? … You loose the correct pressure amount you worked so hard to obtaining and get right in mistake #4. So always remember…
Sized tip? Check.
Adhesion gel. Check.
Handheld lamp. Check.
… And I do recommend the handheld lamp if you’re struggling because, again the more squirming or reaching over to pop your client’s hand in a lamp, the more likely you are to displace that gel you worked so hard to achieve.
So how are you feeling now? Are you feeling like you’re ready to give the full coverage tips another go? I hope these 5 mistakes really boost your confidence, and if at the end of applying all of these tips and tricks you decide that you simply just don’t have the patience for this type of service. Well at least you gave it a big fair shot.
Let me know in the comments section below which one of the 5 mistakes we discussed where you having trouble with, and don’t worry if it was all, as I myself was doing them all too.
Thank you so much for joining me and we’ll chat next week!